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All I can say is what has worked better for me in actual useage and I prefer the Festool saw. But I prefer the Makita rail.

I agree it does sound a bit macabre, I’ve got used to it now, it does mean the structural shell or ‘body’ of a piece of furniture, in addition to meaning a dead animal!!

As you can probably see it’s a mix of different systainer parts, but an ideal size and setup in my opinion

@@Alastair_Freebird The 'Luke' work bench? Its 600mm wide but what is the length?

@@bobbrock41 Yep I'm going to make one of my own. I have a couple of those trestles

😄

Yes I’ve done a few videos on it explaining why, to my disappointment, it just really didn’t work for me. So do you like it? What sort of work do you do?

Andrew from Sensio told me: The battery in the magnets is a similar to that in a key fob (CR2032) and therefore have approximately 3-4 years life. Before simply popping the top cover off the sensor and replacing the battery.

On the whole I remember being happy with it, but the Sayerlack paint we now use is definitely a different class. You could brush or roller that too

Thanks! 😃

Thank you!

Most often, we add an additional cover panel, which allows us to scribe to floor, wall and ceiling as necessary, and doubles up the thickness to match the look of adjoining open units. This may be attached with glue, or Lamello Tenso fixings, or screws under mounting plates if it’s fitting to the hinge side of a cupboard or wardrobe. With our fitted furniture it’s very rare that you see the end of a cabinet itself

Glad you enjoyed it Nic!

Ashley the plaster coving specialist came and matched up the ceiling coving around the front, that was always the plan. I just didn’t get any footage of that

Do you mean it adds forward and back position adjustment?

Thank you. This is quite an old video though!

Hi Tim I am on the top level of cabinetsense which costs $100 per month but you do get some cnc functionality on lower tiers. This is on top of a yearly Sketchup pro subscription which is £300 I think, and vectric Cut 2D which was a one off payment of something like £250 if I remember rightly.

Please watch this video which compares ways of getting vector date from Sketchup into vectric without CabinetSense, then explains the benefits of using CabinetSense

@@Alastair_Freebird Thanks for the reply and am enjoying your Video's - I really don't know when you get the time. We bought C/V some years back and now only pay a monthly support of around just under £100 per month for support which we never use - I have never been a fan of there rendering which we no longer use, and there ability to draw in CAD is virtually none existent . Aspire I think is great and use it every day and have done for many years, however I have never got my teeth into Sketchup and was wondering if there was another way to - skin a cat, as they say. We still use the C/V however if Vetric and there approach was to jump into dedicated detailed cabinet design and construction, I think they would nail it.

Hi thank you for this feedback. It has been on my mind to do an update to this series showing the latest versions of SketchUp but I haven’t found the time. I’d be reluctant to officially sanction still using SketchUp Make as it is no longer supported and I think it would be better to use SketchUp free online, and then transition to purchasing SketchUp pro, which for what it can do is quite good value for a cad program

That would have been better I agree

Yes I would like to transition to doing this. I would prefer to have a self reliant manufacturing business alongside that. So for now I have to focus on that.

@@Alastair_Freebird do you offer services to fitters? Where they give you the measurements and design and you prepare for them at wholesale price?

@@abdullahk8691 Yes please try our brand new shaker door ordering service: uk.customspace.shop/#/page/freebird-interiors

Yes fitting the final plinth face on top of the cut carpet edge made it easier for us to get a neat finish

Hi here it is www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1228246913/3d-assembly-square-original-midi-version

Hi thankyou. A tracksaw allows you to easily cut to an exact line on a board the track edge itself shows where you will cut. It is especially suitable for finish materials that you need a clean cut edge on - melamine and veneers. It is a much more suitable tool for this purpose than a standard circular saw because of the spring that brings it up into it's shell by default. This makes it easy to do a quick scoring cut on the top face to cleanly break the surface; and to control the depth of cut to go through the bottom face. The purpose of the sacrificial rubber strip on the rail edge is also to act as a chip guard, and the festool has plastic attachments for the outer blade edge that serve this purpose too. For easiest cabinet assembly fast, accurate and square you will also benefit from embracing our 3D Assembly square system as show here: ua-cam.com/video/Lzb2MeSNdlc/v-deo.htmlsi=tSLyq0Yl_Ha4juQ_ - unless you want to spend more money on a biscuit joiner or domino jointer, which will also take you more time.

Hi, thanks for watching, I accidentally uploaded this one with no sound! It works better on instragram where I also posted a fuller description: instagram.com/reel/C66nTbaoeXj/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

The material is 'Compacmel', made by Finsa. It is a very high density black-dyed MDF core, with a melamine face (in this example the melamine is a dark grey called 'Gris Gu'). Compacmel is sold by Lawcris in the UK and is designed as a lower cost alternative to compact laminate

@@Alastair_Freebird awesome, thanks Alastair, I'll check it out. I've been using MDF, ply and some hpl but looking to branch out 👍🏻

@@Alastair_Freebird PS hi from London, I've been making commercially for a year. I know you don't have to share this stuff so it's much appreciated as someone starting out

@@stephenhull7120 Thanks for that. My original motivation for sharing like this was the pain of starting out on my own - I like the idea of helping others skip a few steps to get started. FYI I am more active with tips and tricks these days on the instagram account @freebird_trade, and the membership site www.buymeacoffee.com/freebird which allows me to get something back in return for my advice - let me know any particular areas of interest and I'll point you in the direction of any relevant posts, either free or in some cases behind the paywall.

Glad it was helpful!

Hi that’s nice to hear! This one is Compacmel with a dark grey melamine face. This is an old video that has been unlisted for some time, linked to from a QR code sent out with jigs. I decided to make it public to coincide with Makers Central where I am selling cut price jigs in various experimental materials.

Thank you Sam, and I hope you're well

@@Alastair_Freebird very well thank you :) I didn't go to market central otherwise I would have picked up one of your corner jigs they look so useful!!

I get asked this so often!! The Compact hinge. I keep meaning to make a UA-cam video about this one. In the meantime, see this instagram story highlight: instagram.com/stories/highlights/17955056138320141/

Yeah I think touch - latched are best with unsprung (or even reverse sprung) hinges that ensure the door keeps swinging wide open after the latch does its job. But I’ve seen doors delivery fitted on spring hinges, so the touch latch just forces a finger gap then you have to pull it. It’s really pointless to use soft close hinges though!

Yes we do use it and find it to be pretty durable, we don’t typically use the cross linker at all, but if we were doing kitchens I think we would

Hi it’s hard to say without seeing the set up! There are hinges specifically made for mounting kitchen doors to appliances

Hi sorry for the delay, almost always I get a good enough grab in the wall with a red uno plug ( to suit a 6mm masonry drill hole) and a 4.0 x 35mm standard pozidrive screw